The detour
Monday, August 7, 2017
- Three Continents
The border crossing was without any problems and a day later I was back at the Wild Trak Adventure Lodge in Bardiya National Park. Of course it was once again with Sitaram in the jungle.
This time we did not have much luck with the tigers. But after the lunch break we discovered two huge hordes of elephants. Altogether we counted 38 animals and were able to watch the elephant at the river for almost an hour from the tree.
Overall, I spent almost a full week with Johnny at his lodge. It was not easy for me to drive on. In addition, the rainy season in Nepal started slowly. Mixed with the heat and high humidity, it almost feels like being in a 24 hour sauna.
Johnny had recommended an alternative route through the mountains, as I did not want to drive all the way back to Kathmandu on the highway. So I turned off to the north in Kohalpur.
Once you leave the main roads in Nepal, it gets really adventurous. The roads turn abruptly into extremely steep gravel roads and with the many rains, it is often necessary to push.
So I made very slow progress. But I got to see the right Nepal. Most people did not speak English and it was not always easy to find food in the villages.
In addition, in the middle of nowhere my rear tire burst. Of course, the whole village came running right away and everybody watched me change my tires (luckily I had another folding tire in my luggage). In addition, my pump gave up the same spirit.
In Sandhikharka I was fortunately then in a motorcycle workshop buy a new Velopumpe. The Nepalese are extremely reticent and very helpful compared to their Indian comrades.
Over time, I had to completely override my schedule. The conditions here are definitely a different caliber and the rainy season still provided their additional contribution.
Actually, I wanted to make a trip to Pokhara. However, I already took 10 days to arrive in Tansen. There I just wanted to get to Kathmandu as fast as possible.
This beautiful but enormously exhausting detour had cost me 16 days. Exactly 3 months after my start in the direction of Spiti Valley I came back to Kathmandu.
Many things on my bike and equipment urgently needed repair and some things had to be completely replaced.
My mother decided spontaneously to visit me. She also brought me some important spare parts. Together we explored the Kathmandu valley. First we visited Kathmandu and Patan (Lalitpur) Durbar Square.
For many centuries, Lalitpur was the capital of its own kingdom, which was incorporated into the Kingdom of Nepal in 1768 under King Prithvi Narayan Shah. Originally the city and the kingdom were called Patan. The history of the city goes back more than 2300 years.
Of course, a trip to Bhaktapur was not missing. In a traditional guest house we let us go well for 2 days and visited the place. Due to the earthquake on April 25, 2015, about 200 people died in the old city during the collapse of many smaller buildings and two large temples.
From the 14th century to the second half of the 18th century, Bhaktapur was the capital of the Malla Empire. Many of the 172 temples, the 32 artificial ponds and the residential buildings decorated with wooden reliefs date back to this period.
The common days went by quickly and soon I had to say goodbye to my mother again. Thank you very much for everything!
Back at the hostel I met an old companion. I met Jock from Scotland 3 months ago. By chance he landed here in Kathmandu at the end of his journey.
He brought me into contact with Sonja and Akos, a German cohort from Germany. They have been traveling with their bikes for more than a year and have rented an apartment here in Kathmandu for a few months.
Shivaram, the owner, had a second apartment available so I was allowed to move in there for a few weeks. Somehow a strange feeling, if after 27 months on the road suddenly suddenly has its own apartment.
If you come to Nepal you just have to go hiking. That's almost mandatory in this country. Together with Akos we went from our front door on the Helambu Trek.
Tourist Helambu is part of three trekking routes. The most frequented route leads northwest over the Laurebina La (4609 m), a high Himalayan pass, over the sacred lakes of Gosainkund into the valley of Langtang.
Unfortunately, the weather did not play that way. In addition, we both had our little woes. At Akos his shoes caused pain on my feet and my backpack
Most of the leeches bothered us. In the rain, the things attacked us like aliens and we were constantly busy to keep the things off.
In Gosaikund we decided to end the trek and drove from Dhunche by bus back to Kathmandu. There were only a few days left until my departure.
Originally I wanted to cycle from Nepal via India and Burma to Southeast Asia. However, for me, the traffic (especially in India) is just too dangerous and I had no desire to beat me again through India.
So I decided to go for another option and continue my journey in East Asia. I really enjoyed the time here in Nepal. In my view, the country has enormous potential and hopefully will implement it in the future.
The many encounters, the beautiful mountain scenery and the sights in the Kathmandu valley I will keep in good memory. Already I am looking forward to the next visit in this country.